Istra & New Jerusalem, Moscow oblast


The vicinity of Istra is known for "young pioneer" camps, the water reservoir, fancy dachas and sanatoriums, sailing clubs, riding stables, and such. Think of it a Moscow's playground. The New Jerusalem Monastery just north from Istra is now becoming the area's biggest attraction. Another touristy thing is the military museum that features Soviet tanks from early 30s to the end of WW2.

To get here from Moscow take a bus from Metro Tushinskaya. It runs no less than once per hour, thus no particular need to plan, and the ticket costs 40 roubles, which no more than $1.50. It will get you to Istra bus station.  

May I once again remind you that Metro Tushinskaya is close to the famous Mitino market, which is your chance to get back at Bill Gates by buying illegal Microsoft Software for all your friends, relatives, neighbours etc. Further, local pirated MS software may be preferable to the originals because it is stripped of unnecessary bulky and unstable features.

If you are taking a slow trip from St. Petersburg to Staritsa and then Moscow, make Istra / New Jerusalem your last overnight stop. Here you can easily find accommodation in the $10-50/night range.

Istra taxi ad painted on a bus stop shelter. If calling from a cell phone dial 8-231 before the six-digit local number.

The New Jerusalem Monastery and Museum is the biggest "cultural" attraction in Istra. Following the fall of Constantinople Russia saw itself as the center of "true" Christian civilization. Such vision resulted in the establishment, by Patriarch Nicon in 1656, of the New Jerusalem Monastery that modeled holy places of the Palestine.  Presently the Monastery seems to be confidently regaining its former role as one of the centers of Russian orthodoxy.

"Eternal glory to those who fought for the establishment of Soviet power in the Istra region". A stone tablet on the monument by the entrance to the New Jerusalem monastery to people who closed the establishment in late 1920s.

 

"Entry to the territory of the Monastery with dogs is prohibited"

 

The living and the dead mingle in Russian churches.

A couple of views of the whole thing

This famous dome was completed in 1680-something. Then the Patriarch was summoned to the church court and, after a bit of deliberation, exiled north. Then the roof fell down a century later. Then the Germans or perhaps the Bolsheviks blew it up in 1941. A few more heads rolled in repeated attempts to rebuild the roof. Finally it is here, thanks to modern metal frame construction techniques capable of overcoming such annoying obstacles as an obvious lack of grace.

A tour in English can be ordered, when their English-speaking guide is available, at the cost of around 1000 roubles ($35US).

Telephone of the New Jerusalem museum:  8-231-49787.

"TO THE DEFENDERS OF MOSCOW"

A spectacular display of Soviet tanks starting from 1933 to the end of the war on your way from Moscow to Istra/New Jerusalem. [photos, details coming up].

Accommodation

Lots of camps, "tourist bases", and "sanatoriums" in around Istra. The prices can be remarkably cheap too, eg. at the moment of writing this I'm sitting in a 200 roubles/night ($7) little cabin. Took a drive around the area and discovered a camp every few hundred meters or so. Here I will document only places I have personal knowledge of. Here:

Peschany Bereg ("Sandy Beach").

This sanatorium exemplifies an upscale establishment that re-oriented itself to the middle class travellers who seek quiet and healthy environment. I stayed there myself in April 2005 and was delighted even though the price is above my comfortable range. Solid three-star level at the cost of 1300 roubles ($45) per person or 1800 roubles ($65) per couple, including three full meals. Tel. 994-5733 and 994-5184 

The main building.

 

The view onto the Istra reservoir.

Recreation base "Dawn"
After two nights at Sandy Beach I felt like going slumming, and moved half a mile west to this 200 rouble ($7) per night unreformed vestige of the Soviet era. Director: Anatoly Il'yich Kotov, tel. : 8-231-63-634. Boat rental available at 20-50 roubles (less than $2) per hour.

Watch for faded paint, disregard for the vertical and horizontal, and cute names like "Sunrise" or "Enthusiast". These indicate true bargains (typically $5-10 per person per night) for those ready to face "hole in the floor" facilities and "directors" who. for the first five minutes of seeing you try their darn hardest to make you run away but turn into your best friend next day.

Recreation base "Glebovka"
Director: Alexei L'vovich
Watchman: Vyacheslav
Tel.: 8-916-190-5311
Cost: 150 roubles/person, which is just over $5.
No hot water. Very basic conveniences.
Heated space available in the winter.

Fishing sports base "Istra"
Village of Lamishino, 7-10km east from the New Jerusalem Monastery, bus No. 32 from Istra Bus Station to Shkola (School).  Heated houses with "all conveniences", 350 roubles ($12-13) per person per night. 250 roubles for non-heated "summer houses". Bath house ("banya"): 50 roubles per person per hour.  Tel. 8-231-63-123, 8-903-189-1363. Director: Vyacheslav Nikolayevich Peremyshlennikov. Attractions: boat rental, A SMALL SAILING BOAT available.

Sailing is one of a very few sports to which I have no major aversion so there is a good chance I'll try their boat rental myself and add a report here.

More coming up as I continue exploring this region and collecting reliable first-hand accounts.

iSTRA & new Jerusalem in the Internet, in English

 

And now a commercial message from this site's owner, the famous Uncle Pasha, your Russian living, working, travel, and life-in-general guru:
I can be hired for a customized car tour between Moscow and St. Petersburg or around the Golden Ring. The cost of my time is $200 per day, and another $50 is your contribution to the car upkeep fund. Expensive? Perhaps. You will, however, recover some of the cost thanks for my good nose for cheap hotels and cafes. Consider that car rental will cost you $100/day. Hotels that make information about themselves available are $50-80 per room while I will in most cases set you up with something in the $20/range. Same with meals. So you are paying only $100-something per day for me.
 CONTACT DETAILS

Report prepared April 19, 2005, while staying at the Sandy Beach sanatorium. 
Last major update: June 9, 2005.