Rostov (Rostov the Great)

A thoroughly touristy place. Food everywhere in the city I tried is worse than average, with remarkably small portions even by this country’s standards. Last time I was here on my own I just didn’t manage to find anything edible but it was in March, before the beginning of the tourist ripoff season.

But accommodation in the Rostov Kremlin (fortress) stands out. I mean it truly does. Plus several other options. A great place to stay, a crappy one to eat, this Rostov the Great town. At the Kremlin you will get a huge room for an equivalent of $30 AND THE ENTIRE KREMLIN TO YOURSELF!!!  My clients – four of them with a kid – got a huge suite with facilities for 3750 roubles ($125), We had to share the Kremlin with about 5-5 people but that was Friday night and Saturday morning, beginning of June the height of tourist season. Must be quite something in late fall.

To contact the Rostov Kremlin hotel front desk call, Russian only:

+7 48536 61244 (24hrs, Russian only unless you are real good at getting yourself across). You can try writing to dom_na_pogrebah@mail.ru but I would not bother. Their site is www.domnapogrebah.ru.


It is the house at the back. For hours, especially off season and during working days, you won’t see a single competitor for space on earth. A taste of Russian provincial solitude at its best. If you are looking for a stronger version of it, in a dilapidated log cabin in a deserted village, with wolves howling around, three rotten potatoes left till spring time etc. ask me about my Misery Travel (R) program. 

Lots of other accommodation offers in Rostov. Usually no need to reserve in advance.Here are some obtained from the receptionist of the Na Pogrebakh (“Over the Cellars”) hotel:

  • Moskovsky Tract, +7 48536 65800. A large new mainstream hotel.
  • Usadba Pleshanova, +7 48536 76440. Said to have good food.
  • Russkoye Podvorye, +7 48536 64949. Suspiciously much activity around midnight. Neon lights and music.
  • Lion, +7 48536 65755. Supposedly good food.
  • Dom Selivanova, +7 48536 7 5431.
  • Tsarevna Lyagushka (“The Frog that turn Princess”), no telephone, new.
  • Horse Art Gallery, +7 48536 68640. An old one. Small, private. Very inexpensive. Run by painters and artisans. Highly praised by a variety of sources. Right by the late. Recommended based on feedback from numerous sources.

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