Suzdal, Vladimir region

Where is Suzdal? Half a day's driver from Moscow, 30km north from Vladimir.

What is Suzdal like? An an architectural reserve and a standard touristy destination. Most of 25 or so churches were build in the times of Ivan-the-Terrible, and those sensitive to vibes should be warned. Foreigners are welcomed and understood in stores and cafes. The reverse side is that should be ready to run into your loud compatriots or busloads of well-dressed little people with two huge cameras each.

Accommodation. The accommodation industry mushroomed in the last year, and there was no shortage of offers in early June of 2005. It was, however, a rainy weekday so, if you plan to stay here over summer weekends or during school holidays, you may want either to book a place to stay in advance. Or be ready to move on till you find a place to stay in a lesser visited town, or to sleep in the car, under a tree or whatever. The countryside around Suzdal is suitable for camping, and I don't believe there are any limitations as to where you may put up your tent.

Rizopolozhenskaya. In the summer of 2005 I put my guests up at a hotel located by the Church of Rizopolozhenye (Laying of Pluvial?). The cost for two was 1100R ($45). All the standard conveniences, cafeteria, excellent location. And the staff speak some English too!

Address: 601293, Vladimirskaya oblast, g. Suzdal, ul. Kommunalny gorodok.

Telephones: 8-09231-20706 (manager) or 8-09231-24314 (reception) if calling from anywhere within Russia, or 8-231-xxxxx from Vladimir, which is likely to be your last stop before Suzdal. If you are here and are using a local phone just dial the last five digits.

The hotel is behind the convent belfry.

Receptionist Ludmila speaks passable English. Other staff are not foreigner-shy. Don't fear, you will be understood.

A view from the window. The hotel is part of the convent the lawns of which double as pastures. Welcome to the world of no zones and no fences.

Hostel in St. Basil's Monastery. Left my talkative guests at Rizopolozhenskaya (above) and retreated, if temporary, from the world. Clean basic rooms, a chance to mortify flesh by bathing from a sink, but the best thing about staying there was that PEOPLE IN THE MONASTERY DO NO IDLE TALKING. 500 roubles ($17) per night. For a 30 rouble ($1) donation they will open the bellfly so that you can see the city from above.

Travel agencies in Suzdal

Vacations in Suzdal: 8-09231-21600

Food. Same as with hotels: lots compared to 3-4 years ago. Pleasant service, informal and relaxed, Russian style in the good sense of the word. No obnoxious drunken patrons who may want to beat you up the way it was 10 years ago. Some examples:

Pogrebok ("basement"). Good for serious eating and large companies. 8-09231-21732. Located on Kremlevskaya street, open till 8pm.
Tasting hall of the Suzdal Honey Brewery. Open till 5pm on weekdays, 8pm on weekends, tel. 8-09231-20803, 8-905-734-5404. The menu looked good at a glance and I look forward to visiting it today..

Drinking. Medovukha (honey brew) is the local beverage of choice. Comes in three varieties (regular, alcohol-free, and stout). Especially recommended in the winter because it will warm you without making you drunk. Sold everywhere in Suzdal and makes a great little souvenir.

Safely. The city is cleaner and people look happier and more relax every time I visit Suzdal. The rumour is that the mayor is an ex-KGB officer, thus crime is way down, and local business people say there is no racket in Suzdal.

Suzdal links