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Suzdal, Vladimir region
Pop. 10 th.

Half a day's drive from Moscow, 30km north(?) from Vladimir. One of the most popular places among foreign tourists. You will be understood in stores, cafes, and restaurants. The reverse side is that should be ready to run into your loud compatriots or busloads of neat little Japanese*, each with two huge cameras.

Churches and monsteries - Tourists flock to Suzdal to see churches but my review of cult objects failed to yield anything beyond names, dates of construction or reconstruction, and mentioning of architectural styles. The only exception is the Monastery of the Savior and Saint Euthymius, which was serving as a prison for religious dissidents and offending clerics since the times of Catherine-the-Great till it was closed in 1905. Mind you some of these religious dissidents were something else. One of them - his name escapes me at the moment - belong to an Old Believer group that strongly objected to participating in the census. Instead of just disregarding the group as negligibly small statistically insignificant, the authorities, being Russians, dragged them to the police headquarters and held them there for a few days. The Old Believers, also being Russian, resorted to drastic measures that consisted of immuring or burying each other. Alive of course because the 10th Commandment discourages killing. So this guy kills 26 or 27 of his family members and fellow believers but was caught as he was contemplating what to do with himself. Instead of bringing him to the open court, which would make the census takers and the police look stupid, the authorities quietly turned him to this Savious and Saint Euthymus Monastery in Suzdal. Others ended up there just for trying too actively to improve the living conditions of others. Anyone interested in the quirks of Russian judicial system - and, on a deeper level, in values that shape Russian history and way of life - should read about monastery's prisoners. Under the Bolsheviks the prison was turned into a "re-educational" facility for erring communists, then a compound for Polish officers, then a "filtration camp" for Russian POW or those who spent time on German-occupied territory, then a military prison for the Germans, and finally, a facility for juvenile delinquents. In 1967 the "youth colony" was moved elsewhere, facades of Suzdal buildings among main streets painted, a couple of road signs in English put up, a public WC opened, a huge concrete "tourism complex" built, and Suzdal was made into a happy tourist destination for your enjoyment. 

The accommodation industry mushroomed in the last years, and there was no shortage of offers in early June of 2005. It was, however, a rainy weekday so, if you plan to stay here over summer weekends or during school holidays, you may want either to book a place to stay in advance. Or be ready to move on till you find a place to stay in a lesser visited town, or to sleep in the car, under a tree or whatever. The countryside around Suzdal is suitable for camping, and I don't believe there are any limitations as to where you may put up your tent.

Suzdal' hotels from both my 2005 list and from the August 2011 page upgrade:

Rizopolozhenskaya. In the summer of 2005 I put my guests up at a hotel located by the Church of Rizopolozhenye (Laying of Pluvial?). The cost for two was 1100R ($45). All the standard conveniences, cafeteria, excellent location. And the staff speak some English too!  Address: 601293, Vladimirskaya oblast, g. Suzdal, ul. Kommunalny gorodok. Telephones: 8-49231-20706 (manager) or 8-49231-24314 (reception) if calling from anywhere within Russia, or 8-231-xxxxx from Vladimir, which is likely to be your last stop before Suzdal. If you are already here and are using a local phone just dial the last five digits.

The hotel is behind the convent belfry

Receptionist Ludmila speaks passable English. Other staff are not foreigner-shy. Don't fear, you will be understood.

A view from the window. The hotel is part of the convent the lawns of which double as pastures. Welcome to the world of no zones and no fences.

Hostel in St. Basil's Monastery - I left my talkative guests at Rizopolozhenskaya (above) and retreated, if temporary, from this world. Clean basic rooms, a chance to mortify flesh by bathing from a sink, but the best thing about staying there was that PEOPLE IN THE MONASTERY DO NO DO IDLE TALKING. 500 roubles ($17) per night. For a 30 rouble ($1) donation they will open the belfry so that you can see the city from above.

The Petrov Family Guesthouse - Downtown, parking, separate entrance. Three double rooms. Shared facilities. Self-serve dining room. Rates are 1500-2000 roubles per night PER ROOM. May be higher for New Year, Easter and such. Free meeting at the bus station. Breakfast can be ordered for an extra fee. Clients particularly praise bliny (pancakes). Wi-Fi. Suzdal advice. Write to bron@petrovdom.ru or call 8(49231)2-33-26 or 8-919-025-68-84. The hosts are Vladimir and Elena. See the site of the Petrov Family Guesthouse >>, in readable English. Added in August 2011.

Tatiana's House - Guests are free to use the kitchen and to play the piano. Parking. The owner will help "organizing" banya, horse riding, a tour of Suzdal in English, barbeque, skiing or ski-doing. An accordion player can be invited. Ulitsa Lenina 46, tel. 8-905-057-7453 and 8-905-057-7453. See photos at autotravel.ru

Alexandrovskaya Usadba - A 10-bed 2-room guesthouse, downtown, by the river. City tours available. Ulitsa Gasteva 10, tel. +7-905-056-2915, +7-905-146-6189. Irina and Alexander.

Food - Same as with hotels: lots compared to 3-4 years ago. Pleasant service, informal and relaxed, Russian style in the good sense of the word. No obnoxious drunken patrons who may want to beat you up the way it was 10 years ago.  Some examples:

Pogrebok ("basement") is recommended for serious eating and large companies. 8-49231-21732. Located on Kremlevskaya street, open till 8pm. 

Tasting hall of the Suzdal Honey Brewery is open till 5pm on weekdays, 8pm on weekends, tel. 8-09231-20803, 8-905-734-5404. The menu looked good at a glance and I look forward to visiting it today..

Drinking - Medovukha (honey brew) is the local beverage of choice.  Comes in three varieties (regular, alcohol-free, and stout). Especially recommended in the winter because it will warm you without making you drunk. Sold everywhere in Suzdal and makes a pleasant little souvenir.

Arts and Crafts - I seem to recall there is a handcrafts college in Suzdal. Something to be investigated where there next time. One of the monasteries has an icon painting shop.

Cucumber is one of symbols of Suzdal, and locals swear that many of nicer housed have been build with money made selling cucumber seedlings. It is said that Suzdal is unique is that it has black soil despite is northern climate, and that cucumbers love the combination of rich soil and cold air. A "Cucumber Festival" is held on the second Saturday of July each year at the Wooden Architecture Museum.

The Animation Festival is also held in Suzdal. Worth visiting for those who understand. Although too tired and old to act as an interpreter I am willing to try if you have a serious interest in this no-so-serious genre. This year it was held in February so I think the next one will happen in winter too.

Safely -  The city is cleaner and people look happier and more relax every time I visit Suzdal. The rumour is that the mayor is an ex-KGB officer, thus crime is way down, and local business people say there is no racket in Suzdal.

Suzdal links in English

Vladimir & Suzdal Architectural Reserve

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*My opinion of the Japanese has changed after saw two large families of them at my dacha. I was amazed at the relaxed efficiency they did everything, from negotiating rough roads to getting seated at the dinner table to doing horse riding and rafting. Although I cannot understand their fascination with electronic gadgetry, these people no longer appear "mechanical" to me. Also my apartment-renting guests form Japan have never given me a cause to complaint. Presently I'm a fan of just about everything that comes form the land of cherry blossoms.

Page made sometime before 2005
Updated August 21 2011